Angeethi

Take a dhaba off the main road, put it in the lift, push 7, and see what happens. Suddenly it goes from authentic dhaba to an interior designer's idea of an authentic dhaba - which means there are posters of old Hindi films on the wall, chattais on the ceiling, 'rustic' iron figurines in strategically lit alcoves, a make-believe well with pulley, pail and everything, and, let's not forget, a paan ki dukaan (plus a paanwallah, but unfortunately, minus the gori ka makaan). What a difference a couple of storeys can make.

The name, you've probably heard, means 'oven'. A pretty name is not all Angeethi has going for it, though. This designer dhaba does such great business, especially on weekends, because it has no competition in the vicinity, and the food here is quite delish. Especially hits the spot when you want a huge lunch to precede a warm and happy siesta.

First you get a big whoppin' glass of lassi, and then comes everything else. For starters, try the Cheese Kurkuree, or better yet, the Barra Kebab, the nicest thing that can happen to tender lamb. The kebabs here are a specialty, and if you're in the mood for chicken, try the Chandani Kebab, or the Sabootha Choosa.

Roti, of course, rules the main course, and the Makkai Di Roti is excellent in texture and taste. Couple it with the Corn Methi Malai, which is a rich combination of tender golden corn and ground methi leaves. Roti also has a willing companion in the Murgh Rada Masala, a mildly spicy thick gravy. The Sarson Da Saag, we know, is tradition, but it's a better idea to pass up on it altogether here. If you enjoy seafood, the Tawa Prawns are very good, and highly recommended by the regulars.

Not that much choice in the mithai section, but if your meal feels incomplete without the sweet stuff, then the Gulab Jamun is a good idea. Or, if you're feeling up to it, the rather generous helping of Kulfi with pista and other crushed nuts. The size of the Faluda is equally daunting after a large meal. And believe us, it is going to be a large meal. Angeethi makes sure of it.